In 1989, Joel Robuchon was voted Chef of the Century in France and his international restaurants currently hold seventeen Michelin stars between them, more than any other chef in the world. It’s fair to say I was pretty freaking excited about going to L’Atelier.Merely stepping inside is a sensory shock. The room is dark red and glossy black with high seats around three sides of a huge cooking area and a double-height wall of succulent green plants. Think futuristic, Japanese Cheers with heavily-accented French waiting staff instead of Ted Danson. It was stunning and different and I was impressed – but I would’ve eaten the food in an ammonia-scented slurry pit. I’m not religious but I think Joel Robuchon may be divine – how else could he discover the combination of foie gras, port and parmesan for an amuse bouche, for example? Or the spectacular crab on guacamole and tomato? Oh god, or that mushroom and egg number that tasted like ambrosia? The duo of desserts were equally glorious and demanded a requiem to be sung as we swallowed them and mourned their loss. I love my food but it’s not often I’m silenced by it. Flawless.
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